Fashioned heel for seamless hosiery and method of making same



April 10, 1962 G. R. MARLEZTTE ETAL 3,028,739

FASHIONED HEEL FOR SEAMLESS HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Nov. 16, 1960 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTORSZ Gouzv R. MARLE'TTE: and Row! W. BAszraow By iagm.y&mmmg

ATTORNEYS Pmoxz. ART

A ril 10, 1962 e. R. MARLETTE ETAL 3,028,739

FASHIONED HEEL FOR SEAMLESS HOSIERY AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Nov. 16, 1960 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 i o o H i a flfgl United States Patent ()fiice Patented Apr. 10, 1962 3 028,739 FASHIONED IEEL FOR SEAMLESS HOSIERY AND METHGD OF MAKING SAME Goley R. Mariette, High Point, and Roy W. Barrow, Kernersville, N.C., assignors to Adams-Miliis Corporation, High Point, Nil, a corporation of North Caroiina Filed Nov. 16, 1960, Ser. No. 69,679 6 Ciaims. (Cl. 66-187) This invention rel-ates generally to an improved heel for seamless hosiery and more particularly to an improved fashioned heel for seamless hosiery, such as ladies sheer fine gauge hosiery, which is knit of a heat shrinkable and settable yarn and to the method of making the same.

In the art of knitting seamless hosiery, it is well known to reciprocatorily knit a heel pocket between the circularly knit leg and foot portions. In'knitting this type of heel pocket, it is the usual practice to knit a first gusset by forming a plurality of progressively narrowed partial courses and then knit a second gusset by forming a plurality of progressively widened partial courses, the terminal end stitches of which are joined to the terminal end stitches of the narrowed partial courses of the first gusset to form a gore line which connects the gussets on each side of the heel pocket. This gore line extends toward the largest part of the heel pocket and divides the heel pocket into two substantially equal parts and because the gore line is formed by the joining together of terminal stitches of progressively narrowed and widened partial courses, objectionable openings are formed along the gore line. Also, since the partial courses in each gusset are progressively narrowed and widened at equal rates, the resulting heel pocket is more square than it is round. This usual method of knitting a heel pocket produces excess fabric which wrinkles when the hose is placed on the finishing board to shrink and set the same.

In attempts to prevent the formation of excess fabric and to make a better fitting heel, heel pockets have been knit by other methods, such as the well known method employed in knitting what is known in the trade as a Y- heel. In this type of heel, the number of widened and narrowed gussets is increased and the gore lines produced assume the shape of the letter Y. Although the Y-heel is widely used in the knitting of ladies sheer hosiery, it still forms excess fabric which wrinkles and it also has objectionable openings along the gore lines.

While the problems pointed out above are generally applicable to all types of seamless hosiery, they are particularly objectionable in ladies sheer fine gauge hosiery which is knit of a heat shrinkable and settable yarn. The provision of a truly form-fitting seamless hose has been a longstanding problem in the trade because only a limited amount of shaping can be accomplished on a circular knitting machine. This limited amount of shaping is accomplished by varying the length of stitches formed in different portions of the hose to thereby change the diameter of certain portions of the tube being knit. Because of the limited amount of shaping possible during knitting, the final desired shape must be obtained by shrinking the hose on a boarding form having the desired shape. Thus, when a hose having the usual heel pocket is placed on the boarding form, the leg fitsthe form snugly while the ankle, instep and foot portions are loose fitting and the fabric in these areas shrinks much more than the fabric in the leg. Since the fabric adjacent the heel pocket shrinks a greater amount than other portions of the hose, the fabric in these areas is more concentrated and is not as sheer as the leg fabric. This concentration of the fabric in the areas surrounding the heel pocket causes Wrinkles to appear in the heel and these areas appear to be thicker or heavier than the leg portion when the hose is dyed.

With the foregoing in mind, it is a primary object of the present invention to provide a fashioned heel for seamless hosiery which includes a plurality of fashioned gussets which are joined together and to the leg and foot of the hose in such a manner that terminal stitches of adjacent fashioned gussets are not connected together but are connected to plain stitches to form suture lines, as opposed to the usual gore lines heretofore formed, and thereby prevent openings along the junctures of the fashioned gussets.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a fashioned heel for sheer seamless hosiery in which the heel pocket is knit in such a manner that the fabric surrounding the heel pocket will be drawn in to cause the same to snug- 1y fit the boarding form and thereby prevent excessive shrinkage in these fabric areas surrounding the heel pocket.

It is a more specific object of the present invention to provide a fashioned heel pocket having fashioned or tapered gussets which are joined together by suture lines which extend outwardly in divergent relationship from substantially common points at opposite sides of the stocking and in which the suture lines defining the inner ends of the heel pocket extend in directions toward a point above the heel pocket and toward a point below the heel pocket to draw in the fabric in these areas and thereby provide a hose having a better fit.

Some of the objects of the invention having been stated, other objects will appear as the description proceeds when taken in connection with the accompanyin drawings, in which 7 FIGURE 1 is a side elevation of a ladies seamless hose in flattened condition, illustrating the appearance of the diverging suture lines at one side of the improved fash-' ioned heel of the present invention;

FIGURE 2 is a greatly enlarged fragmentary side elevation of the portion of the hose enclosed in the dotted rectangle 2 in FIGURE 1 and schematically illustrating the disposition of the knit partial courses of the heel pocket and the complete courses in the fabric surrounding the same;

FIGURE 3 is an enlarged fragmentary elevation of one side of the heel pocket and showing the division of the fashioned gussets in dash-dot lines;

FIGURE 4 is a side elevation of a conventional type seamless hose disposed on a boarding form and having a conventional heel pocket, illustrating the looseness of the fabric surrounding the heel pocket;

FIGURE 5 is a view similar to FIGURE 4 but showing a hose made in accordance with the present invention disposed on a boarding form and illustrating the snug fit of the fabric surrounding the heel pocket prior to the shrinking operation.

Referring to the drawings, a ladies fine gauge seamless stocking S in accordance with the present invention is shown in FIGURES 1 and 4. The stocking S includes a conventional Welt 10, a circularly knit leg 11, a reciprocatorily knit'heel pocket broadly indicated at 12, a' circularly knit foot 13, and a suitable toe pocket 14. The present invention is particularly concerned with the novel fashioned heel l2 and while the present invention will have its greatest utility in connection with fine gauge ladies stockings which are knit of very fine denier heat,-

shrinkable yarn, such as nylon, it is to be understood that the fashioned heel of the present invention may also be utilized in the knitting of other types of seamless hose, such as mens and childrens half-hose.

The welt 1t), leg =11, foot 13 and toe 14 may be knit in any desired manner s eaves AD URE 2, the leg 11 is formed of a plurality of continuous circular courses knit upon all of the needles of the knitting machine and these circular courses extend through the ankle area and down to the lower edge of the brackets -1.

The improved fashioned heel 12 is knit in a reciprocatory manner and includes progressively widened and narrowed partial courses which are knit on only a certain segment of the needles, in a manner to be presently de scribed. Generally, the heel pocket 12 includes successively knit integral gussets indicated by the brackets G-l, G-Z, G-3 and (3-4 (FIGURES 2 and 3). The gussets G4 and (3-2 are generally referred to as widened gussets because the partial courses progressively increase in length as knitting progresses while the gussets G-3 and G4 are generally referred to as narrowed gussets because the partial courses progressively increase in length as knitting progresses. After the heel pocket 12 is completcd, in a manner to be described in detail later, all of the needles are again brought into action to form a circularly knit course C2 in the foot portion 13. The lower portion of the first of the circularly knit courses C-Z is joined to the reciprocatorily knit partial courses of the heel pocket 12 and the upper or instep portion of the first circularly knit courses C-Z is joined to the corresponding portion of the last of the circularly knit courses C1 of the leg 11.

In describing the formation of the improved fashioned heel pocket 12, a specific example will be described, however, it is to be understood that the present invention is not limited to this specific example. A circular knitting machine having 400 needles is used to knit the leg 11 and the length of the stitch loops is gradually reduced to reduce the diameter of the stocking in the ankle portion above the heel pocket 12. Upon completion of the knitting of the last circular course C1 of the leg 11 on all of the needles in the needle cylinder, the knitting machine switches into reciprocatory knitting and 290 of the needles are raised to inoperative or nonknitting position by the conventional switch cams. As reciprocatory knitting is started to knit the first partial course of the gusset -1, 110 needles are active with the widening pick or dropper in operation. The first partial course of the gusset 64 extends from the point indicated at in FIGURE 2 around the rear of the heel of the stocking and to a point on the opposite side of the stocking which corresponds to the point 26.

With the widening pick in operation, successive reciprocatorily knit partial courses will progressively increase in length or Widen as additional needles are brought into action. The terminal stitch loops at opposite ends of the partial courses in gusset 6-1 are joined to the stitch loops along a portion of the last circular course C1 of the leg 11 to form a first suture line indicated at 21. The knitting of widened partial courses is continued until 22 needles have been added on each side of the group of needles knitting the gusset 6- so that a total or l54 needles are knit in the last partial course of the gusset G4. One end of the last partial course of the gusset G1 terminates at the point 22?; in FIGURE 2 and the other end terminates at a corresponding point on the other side of the stocking.

Before knitting the first partial course of the gusset 6-2, the switch cams raise out of action the 22 needles added at each side of the gusset G-l so that the first partial course of the gusset 6-2 is again knit on llt] needles. One end of this first partial course of the gusset G-Z terminates at the point indicated at 23 in FIGURE 2 and the other end terminates at a corresponding point on the other side of the stocking. During the knitting of succeeding partial courses of the gusset 6-2, the widening pick remains in operation so that additional needles are brought into action with each reciprocation of the knitting machine until 26 needles have been added on each side of the needles which knit the first partial course in the gusset G-Z.

The last partial course of the gusset G?. is thus knit on 162 needles and extends from a point 24 around the heel of the stocking and terminates at a corresponding point on the opposite side of the stocking. As the partial courses of the gusset G-Z are widened or increased in length, the terminal stitches at the ends of the partial courses are joined to the stitch loops along a portion of the last partial course of the gusset G-1 and then to the stitch loops along a portion of the last circular course (3-1 to form a second suture line indicated at 25.

After completion of the gusset G-2, the knitting machine continues to reciprocate and the widening pick is taken out of action so that needles are progressively moved out of action to narrow or decrease the length of the partial courses during the knitting of the gusset G-3. This progressive narrowing continues until 26 needles have been raised out of operation at each end of the active group of needles so that the last partial course of the gusset G3 is again knit on 110 needles. The last partial course of the gusset G-3 extends from a point 26, around the heel of the stocking and to a corresponding point on the opposite side of the stocking.

As the first partial course of the gusset 6-4 is knit, 22 needles on each side of the 110 needles which knit the last partial course of the gusset G-3 are lowered into active position by the switch cam, thus the first partial course of the gusset G-4 extends from a point 27, around and beneath the heel of the stocking and to a correspond ing point on the opposite side of the stocking. The stitch loops adjacent opposite ends of the first partial course of the gusset G-4 are joined to the terminal loops of the partial courses of the gusset (3-3 up to the point 27 to form a suture line indicated at 28.

Thus, the first partial course of the gusset G4 is knit on 154 needles and the narowing picks remain in active position to progressively narrow or decrease the length of the partial courses knit in the gusset G-4- until 22 needles at each side of the active groups have been raised out of operation. Thus, the last partial course of the gusset G4 is knit on 110 needles and extends from a point 29, around and beneath the-heel and to a corresponding point on the opposite side of the stocking.

Upon completion of the last partial course of the gusset 6-4, the machine again switches into rotary or circular knitting and all of the needles are lowered by the switch cams into knitting position so that the first circular course of the foot 13 is knit on all of the needles. As the first of the circular courses C-2 is knit, the terminal stitches at opposite ends of the partial courses of the gusset G-4 and the terminal stitches at opposite ends of the first few partial courses of the gusset G3 are joined thereto to form a suture line 30 which extends from the point 29 to the point 24. A portion of the first course of the courses C4 is joined to the portion of the last of the courses C-l across the instep. The machine continues to knit the circular courses C-2 of the foot 13 as long as is desired, and then any preferred type of toe pocket 14- may be knit.

Referring to FIGURE 3, it will be noted that the end of the widened gusset G-l' is joined to the last of the circular courses C-It along the suture line 21 and the end of the widened gusset G-2 is joined to the last partial course of the gusset G-1 and to the last of the circular courses C1 along the suture line 25. The gussets G-2 and G3 are joined to each other by a common partial course at the juncture thereof and it will be noted that these two gussets G-2 and G-3 are not joined to each other by suture lines.

Also, the end of the narrowed gusset G-3 is joined to the first of the circular courses C2 and to the first partial course of the gusset G- i along the suture line 23 and the end of the narrowed gusset G- is joined to the first of the circular courses C-2 along the suture line 39.

Thus, the first two successively knit tapered gussets G-1 and 6-2 are progressively widened and joined to the last of the circular leg courses -1 and to each other along suture lines 21 and 25 while the next two successively knit gussets G-3 and 6-4 are progressively narrowed and joined to the first of the circular courses C-2 and to each other along suture lines 28 and 30.

Referring particularly to FIGURE 5, the stocking S is shown positioned on a boarding form 31 and the fabric in the ankle and foot portions surrounding the heel pocket 12 are in snug engagement with the edges of the form. The suture lines 21, 25, 28 and 30 diverge outwardly from each other from substantially the point 24. The outermost suture lines 21 and 30 extend in respective directions toward points above and below the heel pocket. These suture lines 21 and 30 set up lines of stress in the fabric in the directions of the dash-dot arrows 34 and 35 (FIGURE to draw the fabric above and below the heel pocket 12 into snug engagement with the boarding form.

As shown in FIGURE 2, the circular courses C-1 and 0-2 are drawn inwardly along the suture lines 21 and 30, causing the fabric above and below the heel pocket to be drawn against the edges of the boarding form 31. The suture lines 25 and 28 extend in a direction generally toward the instep of the stocking and set up lines of stress in the direction of the dash-dot arrows 36 and 37 (FIG- URE 5) to draw the fabric in the instep area into snug engagement with the boarding form 31. Thus, the novel heel of the present invention causes the fabric in the areas surrounding the same to be drawn inwardly to make the ankle and foot of the stocking fit the boarding form more snugly and thereby reduce the amount of shrinkage in these areas during the boarding operation.

Referring to FIGURE 4, a stocking S having'a conventional heel 12 is shown positioned on a boarding form 31 to illustrate how it fits the form before the boarding operation. The stocking S also includes a welt a leg 11', a foot 13 and a toe pocket 14'. In this conventional stocking S, the Welt 10' and upper portion of the leg 11 snugly engages the boarding form 31', however, it will be noted that the hose is not in engagement with the form in the areas above, below and opposite the heel pocket 12, as indicated at 40, 41 and 42 respectively. These areas must be drawn into engagement with the form by shrinking the yarn in these areas a greater amount than the amount of shrinkage in the other areas of the stocking S, and this causes these areas to appear to be thicker, heavier or less sheer than the upper portion of the leg. Also, excessive shrinkage of the areas surrounding the heel 12' causes wrinkles to appear in the heel pocket.

In the specific heel pocket shown and described, the suture lines 21, 25, 28 and 30 do not all terminate exactly at the apex point 24, however, all of the suture lines could be made to meet and terminate at a common point by merely changing the number of needles activated and deactivated during the knitting of the gussets G-1 through G-4. For example, this could be accomplished by increasing the number of needles activated in the widened gusset G-1 and starting the first partial course of the gusset G- on a greater number of needles. This could also be accomplisehd by decreasing the number of needles activated in the widened gusset G-2 and correspondingly decreasing the number of needles deactivated in the narrowed gusset G3.

As has been stated, the fashioned heel of the present invention is not limited to the specific example given as hosiery may also be knitted on circular knitting machines having a lesser or greater number of needles than that described. Therefore, it is believed to be helpful to generally point out the percentages of needles employed in knitting each of. the successively knit gussets G-l through G-4. These general percentages may then be readily applied to the knitting of a heel pocket on knitting machine having other than 400 needles. In the knitting of the widened gusset G-1, approximately 27% of the needles in the needle cylinder are utilized in knitting the first partial course and the succeeding partial courses of the gusset G-l are progressively widened or increased in length until approximately 38% of the needles in the knitting machine are in active position. During the knitting of the first partial course of the widened gusset G-2, again approximately 27% of the needles in the knitting machine are active and the succeeding partial courses of the gusset 6-2 are progressively widened until approximately 40% of the needles in the knitting machine are active. These same needles are utilized in knitting the firstpartial course of the gusset G-3 and the succeeding partial courses of the gusset G-3 are progressively narrowed until approximately 27% of the needles are active during the knitting of the last course of the gusset G-S. In the first partial course of the gusset G-4, approximately 38% of the needles in the knitting machine are active and the succeeding partial courses of the gusset G-4 are progressively narrowed until approximately 27% of the needles are active in the last partial course of the gusset 6-4.

The gussets G1 through 64 may be knit of the same yarn as the other parts of the stocking or, if desired, the gussets may be knit of a heavier or additional yarn to provide reinforcement in the heel. Also, more than four gussets may be knit in the heel 12 as long as the suture lines generally diverge outwardly from substantially a common point at the inner ends of the heel pocket and the outermost suture lines extend generally toward the fabric areas above and below the heel pocket.

In the fashioned heel of the present invention, the gussets are joined to the courses of the body of the stocking and to each other along the suture lines so that there are no undesirable openings in the heel pocket. Also, the arrangement of the gussets and sutures in the present heel pocket provides a drawing in of the fabric in the areas above, below and opposite the heel pocket so that the stocking will fit the boarding form better and thereby prevent excessive shrinkage in the fabric surrounding the heel.

In the drawings and specification there has been set forth a preferred embodiment of the invention and, although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being defined in the claims.

We claim:

I. A fashioned heel pocket for a seamless knit stocking having a leg and foot knit of complete courses, a portion of proximal complete courses of said leg and said foot being joined together to define an instep extending around the front of said stocking, said heel pocket conneetingthe remaining portions of said proximal complete courses of said leg and foot together and extending around the rear of said stocking, said heel pocket comprising a series of four integrally knit fashioned gussets, each of said gussets including a plurality of partial courses of varying lengths extending around the rear of said stocking and terminating at opposite sides thereof, suture lines defining opposite ends of each of said gussets, the number of suture lines corresponding to the number of gusset ends, said suture lines diverging rearwardly from substantially a common point at each end of said instep on opposite sides of said stocking, the two suture lines defining the ends of the outermost gussets on each side of said stocking extending in directions toward areas of the leg and foot located above and below said heel pocket and creating lines of stress in the leg and foot which draw the same inwardly toward said common point on opposite sides of said stocking, and the two suture lines defining the ends of the intermediate gussets on each side of said stocking extending in directions toward said instep and creating lines of s eaves stress in the instep which draw the same inwardly toward said common point on opposite sides of said stocking.

2, A fashioned heel pocket for a seamless knit stocking having a leg and foot knit of complete courses, portion of proximal courses of said leg and said foot being joined to ether to define an instep extending around the front said stocking, said heel pocket connecting the to dining portions of s proximal complete courses of said leg and foot together and extending around the rear of said stocking, said heel pocket comprising a series of four integrally knit fashioned gussets, each of said go;- sets including a plurality of partial courses of varying lengths extending around the rear of said stocking and re: iriating at opposite sides thereof, the firstof said gusssts bc joined to said leg and the partial courses thereof progressively increasing in length, the second of said gussets be" ig joined to said lrst gusset and the partial courses thereof progressively increasing in length, the third of said gussets being joined to said second gusset and the partial courses the ecf progressively decreasing in length, the fourth of said gussets being joined to said third gusset and said foot and the partial courses thereof progressively decreasing in length, suture lines defining opposite ends of each of said gussets, said suture lines diverging rearwardly from substantially a common point at each end of said instep on opposite sides of said stocking, the two outermost suture lines on each of said opposite sides of said stocking extending in directions toward trees of the leg and foot located above and below said el pocket and creating lines of stress in the leg and t which draw the same inwardly toward said common nt on opposite sides of said stocking, and the two intcrmediete suture lines positioned between said two outermost suture lines on opposite sides of said stocking extending in directions toward the fabric in said instep and creating lines of stress which draw the same inwardly toward said (JG-2311011 point on opposite sides of said stocking.

3. A fashioned heel pocket for a seamless knit stocking having a leg and foot knit of complete courses, said heel pocket comprising interconnected first, second, third and fourth gusscts, each of said gussets including a plurality of partial courses of varying lengths extending around the rear of the stocking, the first partial course of said first gusset being interknit with a portion of the last circular course of said leg, the remaining partial courses of said first gusset progressively increasing in length, the terminal loops of said partial courses of said first gusse being interknit with portions of the last complete course of said leg, the first partial course of said second gusset being interknit with a portion of the last partial course of said first gusset, the remaining partial courses of said second gusset progressively increasing in length, the terminal loops of said partial courses of said gusset being inter-knit with portions of the last partial course of said first gusset and with portions of the last complete course of said leg, the nrst partial course of said third gusset being interknit with the last partial course of said second gusset, the remaining partial courses of said third gusset progressively decreasing in length, the terminal loops of said partial courses of said third gusset being interknit with portion of the first complete course of said foot and with portions of the first partial course of said fourth gusset, the first partial course of said fourth gusset being interknit with the last partial course of said third gusset and the terminal loops of the partial courses of third gusset, the remaining partial courses of said fourth gusset progressively decreasing in length, the terminal loops of said partial courses of said fourth gusset eing interknit with portions of the first circular course of said foot, and the last partial course of said fourth gusset being interknit with a portion of the first circular course of said foot.

4. method of knitting a seamless stocking having an t, ioi

improved heel pocket interposed between and integrally knit with the leg and foot thereof which comprises knitting a plurality of complete courses to form a leg, knitting a plurality of partial courses to form a series of four gussets to form the heel pocket while progressively increasing the length of the partial courses of the first two gussets and decreasing the length of the partial courses of the last two gussets, and then knitting a plurality of complete courses to form a foot While joining a portion of the initial course of said foot to a portion of the last course of said leg.

5. A method of knitting an improved heel pocket for seamless stockings which includes a plurality of partial courses knit on less than half of the reciprocating circle of needles of a circular knitting machine to form a plurality of interconnected gussets extending around the rear of the stocking and terminating at opposite sides thereof, said method comprising the steps of commencing the knitting of a first gusset on a predetermined group of the needles in active position and gradually increasing the number of active needles from course to course for a predetermined number of courses, commencing the knitting of a second gusset on the same group of active needles used to commence knitting of said first gusset and gradually increasing the number of active needles from course to course for a predetermined number of courses, commencing the knitting of a third gusset on the same active needles used to complete said second gusset and gradually decreasing the number of active needles from course to course for a predetermined number of courses until the same active needles remain in action which were used to commence knitting the first and second gussets, commencing the knitting of a fourth gusset on the same active needles used to complete said first gusset and then gradually decreasing the number of active eedies knitting from course to course for a predetermined number of courses until the same active needles remain in action which were used to commence knitting of said first and second gussets.

6. A method of knitting an improved heel pocket for seamless stockings which includes a plurality of partial courses knit on less than half of the reciprocating circle of needles of a circular knitting machine to form a plurality of interconnected gussets extending around the rear of the stocking and terminating at opposite sides thereof, said method comprising the steps of commencing the knitting of a first gusset with a group comprising approximately 27% of the needles in active position and gradually increasing the number of active needles from course to course for a predetermined number of courses until a group of approximately 38% of the needles are active, commencing the knitting of a second gusset with said group of approximately 27% of the needles in active position and gradually increasing the number of active needles from course to course for a predetermined number of courses until a group of approximately 40% of the needles are active, commencing the knitting of a third gusset with said group of approximately 40% of the needles and gradually decreasing the number of active needles from course to course until said group of approximately 27% of the needles remain active, commencing the knitting of a fourth gusset with said group of approximately 38% of the needles and then gradually decreasing the number of active needles knitting from course to course for a predetermined number of courses until said group of approximately 27% of the needles remain active.

References flit-ed in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,872,964 Katzenmoyer Aug. 23, 1932 2,388,649 Sheppard Nov. 6, 1945 2,608,847 Torgersen Sept. 2, 1952 

